It’s eight o’clock on a Wednesday evening in the suburbs of Cape Coast. Already some TPA volunteers are milling along the streets, on their way to a party just a few streets away. As you would expect, the hosts have managed to acquire the equipment needed for a half decent house party; mainly a cd player (some kind of music playing equipment is absolutely essential of course), a table with free beer and even a disastrously disgusting, and alcoholic bowl full of punch. This all sounds familiar right? Yes, but how many parties have you been to where the hosts hire a kebab van for the night?At ten past eight sharp a taxi appears in the driveway and Arthur, one of our hosts tonight, steps out grinning. He proceeds to open the door for a good natured looking and middle aged Ghanaian lady who is occupying the front passenger seat, she has a large pile on her lap which includes a saucepan and many loaves of bread. This is Am, the Egg Sandwich Lady, and amongst TPA (Teaching And Projects Abroad) volunteers, she has become somewhat of a legend in these parts. So much so in fact, that the hosts of this party decided to invite her tonight to make egg sandwiches exclusively for us – her response was an enthusiastic “yes of course”, though we were a little worried actually that she would say no.A confused and then enthusiastic cry meets Arthur as he climbs from the taxi - for most of the party goers Am’s appearance is a complete surprise. She is found a prime position and the taxi driver is hastily offered a beer.“The egg sandwich lady is such a legend, it’s made my evening that she is here tonight,” relates an enthusiastic Tom, a medical volunteer. “I love her egg sandwiches,” croons Emily who works at the local orphanage, “the double egg with cheese is my favourite.” Our lady legend speaks with her cooking however, and true to form this evening, my single egg with cheese, aubergines and ever so slightly fried bread, is a delicious culinary wonder. It’s a far cheaper and slightly healthier (yes, I’ll kid myself that) alternative to the post-several-beer kebab that is customary at the end of a night out at home. So how did this fascination for one lady and her eggs… and her cheese begin?One man’s brave search for a kebab like substitute after a night in Cape Coast seems to point to the origins. “Back in the day,” Jurun, a medical volunteer begins, “Reuben (whom I, as a relative newbie volunteer, never actually met), was the only one to get egg sandwiches at Am’s, other people used to buy them in town but they were never that good. Reuben used to wax lyrical about these sandwiches though, and soon he had Tom, Chris, Arthur and me hooked, but we still only bought single or double eggs. Then one evening Chris caught sight of one of those portions of cheese that they have in Ghana, you know, the packets that look a bit like French Camembert. Well we asked if Am could put some in the sandwich and kebamb! The egg sandwich with cheese was born!” And the tradition has been going strong ever since, for five months it has been passed down through the generations of Cape Coast volunteers. Night after night sandwiches are purchased by TPA volunteers of varying shapes and sizes, Am is on first name terms with her most regular customers.We are slightly concerned however. This tradition should survive and become part of every volunteer’s experiences in Cape Coast, but many of the flag bearers of Am’s Egg Sandwiches are leaving at Christmas. We are worried that this obsession could just become another fad, another cheap fix like too many things in Western society. So this is a message to all TPA volunteers who are planning to come to Cape Coast in the New Year… Please keep this tradition going! Especially if you like your omelettes particularly cheesy because you’re guaranteed to love this Ghanaian delight. The egg sandwich lady can be found just down from Solice Junction on the right hand side of the road as you are heading into town.On a normal night the atmosphere as we wait for Am to prepare our orders is tranquil and atmospheric. A few cars pass by and the soft voices and varied accents of the volunteers echo across the night. As I enjoy yet another single egg with cheese, I think of the few nights that I have left and the comparatively few sandwiches that I can fit in during this time. There are thoughts for the future volunteers, and we wonder whether Am, the egg sandwich lady, will bring joy to their hearts. I pray that she will.
Wednesday, 21 November 2007
My Favourite Ghanian Dish? ... It's Not Dissimilar to a Cheese Omelette Actually
It’s eight o’clock on a Wednesday evening in the suburbs of Cape Coast. Already some TPA volunteers are milling along the streets, on their way to a party just a few streets away. As you would expect, the hosts have managed to acquire the equipment needed for a half decent house party; mainly a cd player (some kind of music playing equipment is absolutely essential of course), a table with free beer and even a disastrously disgusting, and alcoholic bowl full of punch. This all sounds familiar right? Yes, but how many parties have you been to where the hosts hire a kebab van for the night?At ten past eight sharp a taxi appears in the driveway and Arthur, one of our hosts tonight, steps out grinning. He proceeds to open the door for a good natured looking and middle aged Ghanaian lady who is occupying the front passenger seat, she has a large pile on her lap which includes a saucepan and many loaves of bread. This is Am, the Egg Sandwich Lady, and amongst TPA (Teaching And Projects Abroad) volunteers, she has become somewhat of a legend in these parts. So much so in fact, that the hosts of this party decided to invite her tonight to make egg sandwiches exclusively for us – her response was an enthusiastic “yes of course”, though we were a little worried actually that she would say no.A confused and then enthusiastic cry meets Arthur as he climbs from the taxi - for most of the party goers Am’s appearance is a complete surprise. She is found a prime position and the taxi driver is hastily offered a beer.“The egg sandwich lady is such a legend, it’s made my evening that she is here tonight,” relates an enthusiastic Tom, a medical volunteer. “I love her egg sandwiches,” croons Emily who works at the local orphanage, “the double egg with cheese is my favourite.” Our lady legend speaks with her cooking however, and true to form this evening, my single egg with cheese, aubergines and ever so slightly fried bread, is a delicious culinary wonder. It’s a far cheaper and slightly healthier (yes, I’ll kid myself that) alternative to the post-several-beer kebab that is customary at the end of a night out at home. So how did this fascination for one lady and her eggs… and her cheese begin?One man’s brave search for a kebab like substitute after a night in Cape Coast seems to point to the origins. “Back in the day,” Jurun, a medical volunteer begins, “Reuben (whom I, as a relative newbie volunteer, never actually met), was the only one to get egg sandwiches at Am’s, other people used to buy them in town but they were never that good. Reuben used to wax lyrical about these sandwiches though, and soon he had Tom, Chris, Arthur and me hooked, but we still only bought single or double eggs. Then one evening Chris caught sight of one of those portions of cheese that they have in Ghana, you know, the packets that look a bit like French Camembert. Well we asked if Am could put some in the sandwich and kebamb! The egg sandwich with cheese was born!” And the tradition has been going strong ever since, for five months it has been passed down through the generations of Cape Coast volunteers. Night after night sandwiches are purchased by TPA volunteers of varying shapes and sizes, Am is on first name terms with her most regular customers.We are slightly concerned however. This tradition should survive and become part of every volunteer’s experiences in Cape Coast, but many of the flag bearers of Am’s Egg Sandwiches are leaving at Christmas. We are worried that this obsession could just become another fad, another cheap fix like too many things in Western society. So this is a message to all TPA volunteers who are planning to come to Cape Coast in the New Year… Please keep this tradition going! Especially if you like your omelettes particularly cheesy because you’re guaranteed to love this Ghanaian delight. The egg sandwich lady can be found just down from Solice Junction on the right hand side of the road as you are heading into town.On a normal night the atmosphere as we wait for Am to prepare our orders is tranquil and atmospheric. A few cars pass by and the soft voices and varied accents of the volunteers echo across the night. As I enjoy yet another single egg with cheese, I think of the few nights that I have left and the comparatively few sandwiches that I can fit in during this time. There are thoughts for the future volunteers, and we wonder whether Am, the egg sandwich lady, will bring joy to their hearts. I pray that she will.
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